Facade of Teatro Goldoni in Livorno
Photo by R. Rosado © IQCruising
Originally named "Leopold Theatre", the Goldoni Theater is Livorno's best and most loved theater. It is the only theater that survived World War II devastation. Built in the 19th century, it was designed and built with a glass roof in an effort to capture the essence of both night and day, as desired by Francesco and Alexander Caporali, who first conceptualized the theater, although the theater itself was designed by Giuseppe Cappellini. The latest restoration to the building was in 2004.
More than just an architectural landmark and a musical venue that the cruise ship passenger will very unlikely have much of an opportunity to enjoy, we included the Theatre in our highlights as it is also a museum dedicated to the great Livornese composer Pietro Mascagni (Livorno, 1863 - Rome, 1945). All sort of memorabilia is displayed in a biographical itinerary that invites the visitor to take a journey through the life of one of the most famous Italian opera composers. Entitled "Itinerari Mascagnani" the exhibition pays homage to Mascagni who was an initiator of the 'verista' melodramatic operatic movement when he wrote "Cavalaria Rusticana".
A bit of the beaten track, the Theater stands south of the city centre, no more than 300 meters after crossing the Fosso Reale. The easiest and most pleasant way to get there is to walk along Via Cairoli (right behind the Duomo), cross the Fosso Reale into Piazza Cavour, take a left turn on Via Rossi and then right to Via Mayer. Alternatively, walk along Via Ricassoli all the way to Piazza Attias and then turn left into Via Mayer - the small square where the Theater stands is no more than 100 meters away.
Via Ricassoli is one of the main shopping streets of Livorno and is the place to go if looking for boutique, higher-end, fashion design. Behind Piazza Attias, Coin (S on the map) is a small department store. Very close to Piazza Attias, the cruise passenger can find another interesting exhibition dedicated to a major artistic personality born in Livorno - the painter Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920). On Via Roma 38, 1st Floor (no lift) the Amedeo Modigliani Museum House (a on the map) is the birthplace of the famous painter. It only opens in the mornings. Via Magenta ends on Piazza della Vitoria with the church of 'Santa Maria del Soccorso' (b on the map) at its centre.
On the way to the Teatro Goldoni or on the way back, the Valdesian Church (c on the map) , the English Cemetery (d on the map) and the Church of San Giorgio (e on the map) are famous landmarks west of the Teatro. Along the Fosso Reale, the Ducth Church (f on the map) , the Liceo ... (g on the map) and, slighly off, the Church of San Bernardo (h on the map) - on Piazza XX Setembre - are landmarks on the Eastern side. The 3 major highlights close by are the Duomo (A on the map) , the Synagogue (B on the map) and the Mercato Centrale (C on the map) . The views of the Fosso Reale from either side of the Piazza Cavour shouldn't be missed (I and II on the map) .
The Restaurant 'Bistro M' (2 on the map) - one of our Top 5 restaurants in Livorno -, on Corso Amedeo, has a wonderful outdoor terrace that is ideal for al fresco lunch. On the same street of the Theatre, close to Piazza Attias, the restaurant 'Il Refugio' (1 on the map) offers the comfort of a classic ambience to savor exceptionally good and diverse meat dishes. For a quick bite, on the pedestrian Via Leonardo Cambini, the 'Cantina Nardi' (3 on the map) is one of the best places in the city to enjoy snacks (or traditional dishes) with a famous wine list in a very cozy indoor setting or outside al fresco. On the same street, 'La Casina di Alice' (4 on the map) is a very well rated vegetarian restaurant. If going as far as the Piazza della Vitoria, the 'Pizzeria Sarda' (5 on the map) is a hidden al fresco delight for a pizza.
|Address:||Via Carlo Goldoni, 83|
|Open:||Mornings Only: 10:00am to 1:00pm|
|Closed:||Saturday and Sunday|
NOTES: On the small square by the Theatre, there are a couple of nice places to have a cappucino or even a quick bite.
The memorabilia on display pays homage to Pietro Mascagni, one of the most famous italian opera composers born in Livorno.
Credit: Etienne (Li) - Creative Commons
The interior of the Goldoni's Theatre has a romantic charm of its own.
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