Typical Restaurants
in Livorno (Italy) Cruise Port
Guide and Review (2022)

The restaurants in Livorno where locals have lunch: reviews of La Vecchia Senese, Trattoria Antico Moro, La Barrocciaia, Cantina Senese, Trattoria L'Antica Venezia, Al Fosso Reale.

Update: June 3, 2023

Like in most cities in the World and in all industrial cities in Italy, there a good number of restaurants that are particular favorites of locals residents.

Photo of Staff of Restaurant La Barrocciaia in Livorno

Trattoria La Botteghina in Livorno

Photo Courtesy of La Botteghina Management

Most of these genuine traditional restaurants are favored by locals thanks to the excellent location - usually in the town's center or close to busy areas and because of the good value for the quality of the cuisine. It’s not by chance that most of them offer "menù per lavoratori a prezzo fisso" or just plainly "menù per lavoro" - loosely translated as menu for workers at fixed price. Lunching at these restaurants is a guarantee of best value for money but you have to be prepared to mingle with their well-established clientele and, above all, to be aware that these are not restaurants catering for tourists.

Although English is not fluently spoken most have a menu in English - if not, just be patient and use common sense to communicate with the high probability of broken English. The quality of what you will pay for doesn't get better.

This said, all the restaurants IQCruising selected for this category have been familiar with serving tourists, specially cruise ship passengers - as it happens on "La Vecchia Senese" which even offers a specially discounted lunch menu for cruise travelers. Although most accept credit cards be prepared with cash (Euros) just in case.

The informality of some of these "Local Restaurants" can be intimidating as they can have a rustic ambiance, basic decor, furniture that is far from top notch design and a serving etiquette that is more cheerful friendly than ceremonial. Cuisine is traditional, savory and plenty but pizza will not be on the menu.

La Vecchia Senese
(Typical Old Fashion) - $ to $$

One of the Editor's Favorites for the quality of the pasta (al dente as it must), the ample interior has a simple décor and in the summer there are shaded tables outside. The pizza is typically Neapolitan and affordable. It offers a €15.00 menu including an appetizer, main with a side dish, wine and coffee. The Cacciucco is on the menu but not their best dish. Arrive before 1:00 pm, as it gets full with locals workers from nearby services - banks, offices, shops.

Photo of the Interior of Restaurant La Vecchia Senese in Livorno

La Vecchia Senese

Photo © IQCruising.com

Where: City Center - Behind Duomo, next to the Synagogue
Prices:Between €15.00 and €25.00 per person.
Open:Lunch: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm | Dinner: 5:30 pm - 11:00 pm
AddressVia Tempio 14
Phone:Fixed: 0586 89 25 60
Nearby:Duomo, Synagogue, St. Giulia Church, Piazza and Via Grande, Via Cairoli.
Notes: So close to the Cathedral - on the small street on the right just behind the Duomo - that is ideally located for lunch after exploring the city center or on the way back to the Piazza Municipio to get on the shuttle.

Trattoria Antico Moro
(Hidden Fish) - $$

Difficult to find at a first glance as it is hidden at the end a small street off the Piazza Cavallotti, next to the Mercato Centrale. This is a strictly fish restaurant and your best choice will be to accept the catch of the day recommendation as this is will be the freshest fish available. Naturally, the Antico Moro also offers Cacciucco (at €25.00). Also on is a Degustation Menu €25.00 (Antipasto, Primo and Secondo). Credit Cards accepted.

Photo of Restaurant Antico Moro in Livorno

Trattoria Antico Moro

Photo © IQCruising.com

Where: City Center - Mercatto Centrale
Prices:Between €20.00 and €30.00 per person.
Open:Lunch: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm | Dinner: 7:30 pm - 10:30 pm
Closed:Wednesday and for lunch on Monday
Address:Via Bartelloni, 27
Phone:Fixed: 0586 88 46 59
Nearby:Mercatto Centrale, Fosso Reale, Via Grande, Via Madonna, Duomo.
Notes:In the 1960's the Antico Moro was a place to go for famous musicians like Arthur Rubinstein, Andres Segovia or Sviatoslav Richter whilst performing in Livorno.

La Barrocciaia
(Lively and Young) - $

Famous for the best Panini in Livorno, ideal for a very filling quick bite, La Barrocciaia has a fabulous and affordable menu enjoyed by locals and very tourists. Be prepared to share a table and enjoy the lively, talkative and young character of staff and clientele alike. Traditional dishes include Trippa (Tripe), Seppie (Cuttlefish), Cinghiale (Boar), Baccala (salted cod fish) and, of course, Cacciucco.

Photo of the interior of Restaurant La Barrocciaia in Livorno

Restaurant La Barrocciaia, Interior

Photo Courtesy La Barrocciaia

Where: Heart of City Center
Prices:Between €10.00 and €25.00 per person.
Open:Lunch: 10:00am - 3:00 pm | Dinner: 5:00 pm - 1:00am
Closed:Monday and Saturday for Lunch
AddressPiazza Felice Cavallotti, 13
Phone:Fixed: 0586 88 26 37
Nearby:Mercatto Centrale, Fosso Reale, Via Grande, Via Madonna, Duomo.
Notes: La Barrocciaia is on the east side of a square that is one of the most popular fresh fruit and vegetable markets in Livorno (typically loud and lively in the morning).

Cantina Senese
(Popular and Famous) - $$

The simple, traditional décor matches the genuine and traditional recipes offered at the Cantina Senese - all prepared with fresh produce. The "Riso Nero" (black rice with cuttlefish), the "Spaghetti su' favelli" (baby broad beans) are as famous as fish specialties like Dogfish with Peas or the ubiquitous Cacciucco. The house wine is more than OK and it has a very good wine list if you wish to splurge. Otherwise, for €15.00, you can get an appetizer, a main course, coffee (fabulous) and with a bottle of water.

Photo of the interior of the Restaurant Cantina Senese in Livorno

Cantina Senese, Interior

Photo Courtesy Cantina Senese

Where: South of City Center
Prices:Between €15.00 and €25.00 per person
Open:Lunch: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm | Dinner: 7:30 pm - 10:00 pm
Address:Borgo dei Cappuccini, 95
Phone:Fixed: 0586 89 02 39
Website:Facebook Page
Nearby:Porto Mediceo, Fosso Reale, Quattro Mori Monument.
Notes:Not to be confused with "La Vecchia Senese", also reviewed on this page, the Cantina is closer to the Porto Mediceo and one of the best affordable places if docked at this smaller port.

L'Antica Venezia
(Hidden Simplicity) - $$ to $$$

In the heart of the Venezia Quarter, tucked in the corner of Piazza dei Domenicani where St. Catherine's Church (one of Livorno's Highlights) stands, this is a hidden delight. With a with simple no frills décor - a few paintings on the walls, marble tables, paper place mats - the service is excellent and warm. It offers great alternatives to the typical fish recipes and very good desserts.

Photo of the Restaurant Trattoria L'Antica Venezia in Livorno

Trattoria L'Antica Venezia

Photo © IQCruising.com

Where: City Center - Venezia Quarter
Prices:Between €20.00 and €30.00 per person
Open:Lunch: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm | Dinner: 7:00 pm - 11:00 pm
AddressPiazza dei Domenicani, 15
Phone:Fixed: 0586 88 73 53
Nearby: Venezia, St. Catherine's Church, Fosso Real, Fortezza Vecchia
Notes: Great location to end a walking exploration of the Venezia Quarter and enjoy traditional cuisine in a simple setting.

Trattoria Il Sottomarino
(Abundant Cacciucco) - $ to $$

This popular restaurant with over 40 years of tradition has a cozy ambiance with a quaint decor. Known for its abundant portions and joyful service, the Sottomarino is an exclusive fish-restaurant and, obviously, the Cacciucco is the specialty - one portion (€30.00) serves two. The house wine (Rosso Tuscolo di Montecarlo di Lucca) is excellent and so is the equally famous ponche.

Where:North of Piazza della Repubblica
Prices:Between €20.00 and €30.00 per person
Open:Lunch: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm | Dinner: 7:30 pm - 11:00 pm
Closed:Monday and Tuesday
Address:Via Terrazzini, 46
Phone:Fixed: 0586 88 70 25
Nearby: Piazza della Repubblica, Sacred Art Museum, Fortezza Vecchia.
Notes:Recommended by many a tourist guide as one of the best places to eat Cacciucco in Livorno it can inevitably get very crowded. It is advisable to arrive before 1:00 pm.

Vecchia Livorno
(Old Redesign) - $$ to $$$

Very few tourists have discovered this old restaurant which has put some care in its decor - table cloths, designed glasses and porcelain - but keeping the simplicity of the ambiance The service is friendly, the produce is fresh, traditionally prepared and presented with good taste. Inevitably, prices are a bit higher than in most 'popular restaurants'.

Where: City Center - East Piazza Repubblica
Prices:Between €25.00 and €35.00 per person
Open:Lunch: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm | Dinner: 7:00 pm - 11:00 pm
Address:Scali delle Cantine, 34
Phone:Fixed: 0586 88 40 48
Nearby: Fosso Real, Fortezza Vecchia, Piazza dela Repubblica, Sacred Art Museum
Notes:Walking to this restaurant you will go along a very nice stretch of the Fosso Reale with fabulous views of the Fortezza Vecchia.

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